Marble [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marble] has been used for many years for a variety of uses. Chances are you have some in your house – whether on a window sill, the flooring, a sculpture, whatever… I’ve found that many people believe that it is difficult to work with or impossible to fix without calling in a professional. Well, no. This doesn’t mean that professional marble finishing companies aren’t necessary, but marble is surprisingly easy to finish and polish.
I’m also going to teach you 2 tricks that even some of the pros don’t know about.
Marble is a type of stone found all over the world. There are various colors, grades, qualities, classifications, etc. – The Wikipedia link above has some decent information if you want to get into details outside the scope of this post… Anyway, it’s a stone. it’s softer then many abrasives and is also easily etched by some chemicals, so sometimes marble needs to be cleaned up or re-polished.
But before we get into details here, please allow me to make something very clear:
THERE IS ALMOST NO REASON TO USE ANY DANGEROUS CHEMICALS ON MARBLE WHATSOEVER BESIDES WATER, SOME CARNAUBA WAX, OR OXALIC ACID. The wax would only be for sealing it, and the oxalic acid would only be for certain types of polishing. (avoid the acid, you don’t need it).
Also: PLEASE BE SAFE AND WEAR AN APPROPRIATE PARTICLE MASK!
In this example, I’m using regular sandpaper for the 80 and 220 grit sanding, and regular wet/dry sand paper for the rest of them. nothing special.
First, I sanded with 80 and 220 grit. nothing special.
Then I started wet sanding. Wet sanding simply means using wet/dry sandpaper using water as a lubricant. that’s it. I went all the way to 1000 grit. 1000 grit sandpaper may be a bit difficult to find – everything up to 600 grit can be found at any home, hardware, or auto store. if you use the same piece of 600 grit sandpaper long enough, it will dull and give you almost the same results as the 1000 grit.
Also, in the pictures below, please understand that I allowed the marble to dry after sanding before taking the pictures using an ancient technique: wiping it down with a cloth and letting it air dry.
You can click on the images to see them a bit larger…
OK, I promised 2 tricks that even some of the pros don’t know about… Here are 3 (well, 2.5):
- If you’ve sanded your marble to 600 grit (or finer) and want a traditional (Renaissance-era) awesome finish on it, rub it with the fuzzy side of a piece of leather (preferably leather than doesn’t have any dye on it) – the resulting polish will be amazing.
- If you’re trying out #1 above on a piece of marble that you’d like to protect a little bit more, because it’s outside or whatever – get a TINY amount of carnauba wax (paste wax – but take it out of the can and let the chemicals evaporate first, you just want the wax) – remember, TINY – and put it on the leather, and rub it in.
- If you’re bored… you can also polish marble with other pieces of marble – which is how many of the VERY OLD marble sculptures were polished.
Oh – and here’s a pic of the marble after having been rubbed with leather – with a TINY amount of carnauba wax…
If you have any questions, I’d love to help.
-Brian
Horan Fine Arts 
January 9th, 2012 at 00:03
Thanks for some common sense ideas on polishing marble. I have a top I just made for a really old table we found in our barn… Nice cherry table, but the top was gone.
Reddish marble, no idea of what or where it came from, oval shape, about 2x3ft ogee edge!
I got as far as the polishing step, and figured a little insight would help.
as my email states, just another thing i can say i have hacked my way thru!
Just wanted to say thanks!
John
June 15th, 2015 at 20:40
Good to hear, John! Sorry for the delay in my reply. I’d love to see pictures of the table!
May 3rd, 2015 at 19:16
Working on marble sculptures
July 9th, 2015 at 11:08
what type of sanding do you perform? Circular, hand, or an electric hand sander?
July 9th, 2015 at 12:18
Depends on the piece I’m working on. Usually hand sanding for the finer grits of abrasive.
December 5th, 2015 at 04:00
Can you give me advice on how to sand a marble vase that I just recently bought second hand. Many scratches. I can send you a pic.
January 11th, 2016 at 14:26
Certainly.
In general, start with a coarse grit and incrementally move to a finer grit. If the scratches are very deep, it may not be possible to remove them without damaging (or having to re-shape) the piece.
January 11th, 2016 at 13:58
Hello Brian ,
You inspired me to polish a bathroom vanity.(Mable).
I have gone all the way from 300 to 5000 grit. The luster is good and can see lights reflected but I still see very tiny scratches in the light. Is there something I did wrong? Can I make it more polished? Also is there a specific direction I should go each time?
Thank you
Tom
January 11th, 2016 at 14:23
Hi Tom. There will always be some irregularities in a marble surface unless it’s sealed – more so when the marble has a larger crystalline structure (bigger grain, as it were). If you’re still seeing scratches that look like they came from the polishing you did, it’s most likely because you jumped to a finer grit – before removing the scratches from a coarser grit.
A few things can help…
1) If your stone has a noticeable grain direction, it may help to polish in line with the stone’s grain.
2) After polishing with various grits, give it a good (elbow grease) rub down with a piece of leather – the ragged side down. This will polish the marble a bit more and seal fine scratches.
3) Finally, there may be some benefit to rubbing/polishing with a little wax or chemical sealant, but that would depend on the stone you have as well as the wax that you have available and how the surface will be treated.
I hope this helps!
March 20th, 2016 at 04:04
Hi Brian. This was a excellent article and beats all the “youtube” etc., advice out there.
I assume you don’t recommend using the commercial polishing powders out there.
Importantly I’m polishing a marble paver for use as a shelf in a shower, thus in a very soapy/shampoo/mildew environment. Should I seal the finished piece and if so with what?
Regards, Mike
April 26th, 2017 at 20:18
Hi Mike. The commercial stuff works really well too. In my opinion, marble is usually not a great choice for wet environments because it’s so porous and soft. If you want to invest the time into a wax finish, by all means – but it’ll be a lot of work to maintain it. Have you considered steatite or soapstone? It isn’t porous and is great for wet environments. It can also be much less expensive.
July 16th, 2016 at 13:56
Thanks for posting this article. I’ve just discovered the painted fireplace in my bedroom is marble underneath and was worried about how to strip it back. I’m less worried now and optimistic for the results. Thanks for taking the time to write this Brian.
April 26th, 2017 at 20:14
Please let me know how it turned out!
November 24th, 2016 at 08:32
Hi there,
I have black marble hand wash basin in bowel shape. Over the years get dull. How can I brig it to previous shine?
April 26th, 2017 at 20:14
polish it and seal it. If you do that regularly, it’ll look great indefinitely.
November 29th, 2016 at 14:02
I have a white marble statue that’s been in the front yard for years. I would love to clean it up a bit but not sure how. Any suggestions would be appreciate. Lisa
April 26th, 2017 at 20:13
Depending on your weather and the items causing the stains you may need to do this every year or so – but it’s a cheap and easy way to maintain it and it works really well.
December 29th, 2016 at 19:24
Hi Brian.
I have a question. I have a bathroom marble floor that i need to extend. I had some spare marble pieces so I matched these exactly. But the installed marble is a few grades darker. More yellowish. How can i ger my old, installed tile to have the same or similar color to the new tile?
Your help is appreciated in advance.
Juan
April 26th, 2017 at 20:04
Hi Juan,
you could probably lighten up the older, darker marble on the floor by cleaning it and re-sealing it. Depending on the stone it should remove some of the darkening yellow shade. If they’re almost close enough (the new and the old) to make you happy, perhaps laying the new stone and then re-sealing the whole floor may be the best option.
At the other end of the pain-in-the-rear spectrum, you could strip the old and the new (which probably already has some sort of sealant) and polish them both with a tinted wax – it’ll be as close to perfect as you can get, but it’ll probably be a pain.
March 26th, 2017 at 18:44
Thank you, appreciate the insight!
April 26th, 2017 at 17:21
We have Aspen Gray marble counters that our builder initially said was quartzite. When we did our research on quartzite and saw how durable it was supposed to be we approved its installation. We quickly saw how fragile it was and after more research discovered that it is indeed marble. Lemon juice, wine, tomato sauce….all goes straight into the stone within seconds or minutes depending on what it is. Really amazingly fragile, albeit gorgeous.
It is honed, so that helps with the etching. However I would like to be able to touch up etch marks on my own (we have six kids in total and I can’t monitor every move they make! đŸ™‚ by sanding across the entire surface. I wouldn’t mind if it were even more matte than honed. I see from reading above that 220 is recommended? that seems like a very low number. Also, would have to re-seal afterward, correct?
Thoughts?
April 26th, 2017 at 19:58
I just went to 220 grit in the photos above, but took it all the way to 1000 grit. 220 grit will give you a very dull surface. Depending on the type of marble (crystal size, impurities, etc.) you may want to go higher. 400-600 grit (wet sanded) should generally give you a nice eggshell-like matte finish that can easily be polished if you want, too… but either way, you’ll want a sealer on/in the stone to prevent as many stains as possible, especially in areas that are prone to them.
Also, it might be worth noting that if you have stains in a lighter shade marble, a paste of baking soda and water can often work wonders to remove them (it also works on grout), but I recommend testing in an inconspicuous area first – just to be safe.
May 25th, 2017 at 19:24
Hi Brian, my question to you is that i have a new honed finished counter and would like to follow your instructions as mentioned before i put a sealer on it? I feel the stone as it was just installed need a little more TLC before its trapped with sealer.. please help..
Many thanks
Paul
June 17th, 2017 at 09:09
Hi Paul. Yes, you’d want to sand/polish before sealing in many situations, because otherwise you’d simply be abrading a sealed surface, which may not give you the desired effects you’re looking for.
June 12th, 2017 at 12:50
May I send you photos of our marble kitchen counter? Seems it has etched marks on it. Original paperwork says honed marble. But seems more shiny. Would love any recommendations for repairing. Thank you so much.
June 17th, 2017 at 09:09
Certainly Melea. If you can, post a link to the images.
June 17th, 2017 at 04:56
Hi Brain,
Could you suggest the name of a sealer you would use for marble.
June 17th, 2017 at 09:14
That’s a tough question, because it would depend on the environment that the marble is in. Some are simply polymers that cover the surface, some are absorbed, and some are simply polishes… Also, your marble may not need to be sealed.
I wish I could be more help on this.
June 26th, 2017 at 17:12
Hi Brian,
This article was great and a real relief to find! I’ve just had a piece of marble cut to make a shelf behind the toilet that matches our marble vanity counter. At the marble shop I asked them to do a honed finish, but upon getting the piece home I realize that the existing counter is quite a bit shinier! Is it possible to sand this by hand to a shinier finish with your technique described above? Is there any particular brand of sandpaper that you prefer? And on a honed surface, what grit should I start with?
Thanks so much!
November 9th, 2017 at 21:14
Hi Alex! Sorry for the horrible delay in my response. Generally any finish you can imagine can be done by hand. It may be more work, but it can definitely be done. If both surfaces (honed and high-gloss) are already smooth and free from debris, wet-sanding everything with 600 grit will give you a vaguely shiny finish, and you can use finer abrasives from there to get more luster as desired. If the vanity counter will be a high-use surface, it may be worth getting a sealer that can be polished so you can both protect the surface and have the ability to get the surface as glossy as you’d like.
November 10th, 2017 at 07:44
Hi Brian, Thanks for your reply! I had ended up going with your tips in the article and was able to match the sheen of the shelf to the existing counter perfectly!
With the bonus that wet-sanding marble by hand can instantly make one feel like an ancient Roman craftsman!
Thanks again for the helpful article and comments!!
November 10th, 2017 at 10:41
That’s great to hear!
November 9th, 2017 at 17:24
Hi Brian,
Im hoping to clean off my marble kitchen bench. It has some of those etching marks that people are referring to and is generally in need of cleaning and sealing. While I’ve read many websites, I’m still not sure of the exact order of the processes involved. Can you confirm for me? Is it
– Cleaning with an acid-free marble cleaner first to remove any remnant of previous sealer? The product I have says to apply with a scrubbing brush and leave for 15 minutes – not allowing to dry?? This I find rather confusing. Surely I then need to wash off and dry.
– Is sanding with the orbital sander the next stage (or should I have done this first? So much confusing info online) . A neighbour with the same bench used 240 grit sandpaper while spraying with water,and her matt looking surface is lovely.
– Sealing next?? I have a polished stone sealer that was recommended. The can briefly mentions the option of applying 2 coats. Would you recommend this?
– Polishing. Is this to be done as the last stage? A friend has lent me his car polisher. Is this ok to use when applying the polish?
Sorry to bombard you with so many questions but the more I read online, the more confusing the whole process becomes. In particular, the order n which each process is to be done.
I’d love your advice if you have a minute – or two!
Thanks,
Tricia
November 9th, 2017 at 21:08
Hi Tricia!
Generally, you’ll want to do the more abrasive things first, then polish, then seal.. so:
If you don’t have any kind of buildup on the surface of the stone, go ahead and sand first. I recommend against using an electric, orbit sander for wet sanding because of the electricity & water – also, sanding by hand with a sanding block can be just as productive and may prove to be less messy. If there is a buildup of gunk on the stone, go ahead and use a cleaner first.. Something as simple as a paste of baking soda & water with a scrub brush should suffice in many cases – if you’re going to eventually sand the piece.
After you’ve sanded the stone to the desired grit – 220 and 320 should give a nice matte finish, 600 should give a vaguely shiny finish, etc. – go ahead and seal it. I would recommend letting the stone dry a little before sealing it to prevent blushing of the sealer. a day or two in air conditioning should suffice, unless the piece has been very wet for a long time – if so, just give it some more time to dry. Following the instructions for the sealer you have is generally a good idea.
Polishing can be done last, or second to last – if you’d like to put a light coat of wax to protect the polish/seal/stone multi-layer thing that we’re making here. Automotive wax can give your polish a little more longevity – and can be re-applied easily and inexpensively.
If you’re comfortable using a car polisher, by all means… go ahead! It may be a bit more than is needed – and I’d recommend changing the bonnet(s) before returning it, because stone grit can do terrible things to automotive finishes.
Also – about the cleaner part I wrote, above… if you’re going to sand after using a cleaner, simply wiping it off should be sufficient.
I hope this helps!
November 10th, 2017 at 01:49
Thank you Brian, so lucky to have stumbled on to this website. Not only have you provided answers to all my questions, your clear, concise descriptions are fantastic. Can’t thank you enough.
Tricia
November 10th, 2017 at 10:42
I’m happy to help and wish you the best!
November 22nd, 2017 at 16:52
Hi Brian,
Recently moved into a condo which has light coloured marble in the hall, kitchen and one of the bathrooms. There were many marks on the floor from various spills. I spent the money to have it professonally polished and sealed. That was 2 months ago and as careful as we can be we have some marks from lemon juice etc. What is the best method to reduce these small marks as they will certainly build up over time? Can I not just go directly to a very fine polishing paper as the shine is still incredible? Would you recommend the polishing powder instead?
Thanks,
Allan
May 11th, 2018 at 19:52
To reduce marks, seal the stone. To protect the stone a little more, maintain a coat of wax on it. carnauba (like in car wax, but the wax used for floors would be better, as it’s less slippery) wax is great. Keep it waxed and the spots will be on the sacrificial wax surface, and not the stone…
December 13th, 2017 at 21:00
Hi I ruined parts of the shine on my marble like engineered Stone. I have always used a half apple cider vinegar cleaner and didn’t realize it would spot. What can I do? These are light etchings
May 11th, 2018 at 19:49
oh no! sand it, clean it with a slurry of baking soda and water – and wash that off after a while, and re-polish it. Please don’t use vinegar to clean marble…
March 3rd, 2018 at 11:51
Hi there, I used a multi-speed hand polishing machine and slow wet polished a small damaged area on a machine polished marble counter top. I used Monster polishing powder for marble, travertine ,limestone & Terrazzo. I achieved a high polish but the re-polished area isn’t as smooth as the other parts of the counter and stands out. It’s as if some of the different materials in the marble were softer than others and the soft ones got more polished away than the hard ones leaving this uneven surface. The darker areas are now higher than the whiter areas. How can I achieve the totally smooth surface I have on the rest of the counter? I will thank you in advance because I cannot find anything about this issue online. best Conal
May 11th, 2018 at 19:48
Hi there! The easiest answer I can give you is this: polishing a counter top is like painting a house. You can do small spots, but the differences will be visible. If the height/thickness differences are too great 1/16″+ (1.5mm+), it may be time hire a pro with the equipment to grind the whole thing down to a consistent height; if not you’ll simply want to sand the whole thing down to maybe 100 or 150 grit and work your way up.
Marble is a non-foliated metamorphic stone, and there will be areas that are harder and softer for a variety or reasons – crystal/grain size, mineral inclusions, etc. Also, if you believe that there are significant differences in the hardness of the stone, it may be worth using a strong/hard penetrating sealer once the desired finish has been obtained.
May 10th, 2018 at 04:39
Hi Brian, I’m trying to refinish a marble table I got for free. It had some sort of resin coating all over it, but it was left in the sun (just a guess) and was cracked and chipped all over. I’ve tried sanding it down from 100 and 220 grit dry, all the way up to 1000 grit wet/dry. It still has tons of little pits and lines in it. What advice would you give to help me restore this beautiful piece back to its former glory? P.s. I had to use a razor scraper to get the resin off, and the rounded edges and bottom still have some remnants left. I can send pictures as well…
May 11th, 2018 at 19:38
Hi Michael, I have some good news and some bad news. The good news is that you have some experience using abrasives. The bad news is both solutions are going to require some sanding/polishing. The hard way to do it, or the “purist” way to do it would be to sand the entire surface down until the pits and lines are gone, and then use finer grits until you achieve the desired finish. The less-difficult way would be to use a filler for the pits and lines, generally any clear and UV stable (non-yellowing) epoxy could be used for this, but there are special epoxy mixtures made for this purpose…then comes everyone’s favorite – the sanding… Which one is right for you? It’s up to you. The first option is a lot of work that may not pay off – sometimes pits and cracks go all the way through, sometimes they don’t. If the marble is thick enough it might be worth starting with an 80 or 50 grit – with a belt sander belt glued to a flat board, and going from there through the grits you’ve already done. It’s a pain, but if there’s enough (by way of thickness) good (meaning non-scarred or cracked) marble, it can be worth it. You’ll also earn the right to demand that people use coasters on the table or have to risk doing all of the sanding themselves..lol
May 13th, 2018 at 04:41
Unfortunately, I don’t own a belt sander. I’m using an orbital sander currently. When I use the 80 or 100 grit it seems like it’s evening out most of the pits and lines. However, once I increase to the 220 it seems like more show up. It feels mostly smooth to the touch (a huge improvement over the condition I got it in), but I’m really trying my best to stay patient. Do you think I’m rushing to increase the grits? Also, what brand/kind of wax do you suggest? All of the ones in the car polishing aisle don’t have their ingredients listed…
May 13th, 2018 at 18:53
ah – i just meant the belt from a belt sander, sorry about that. If the pits/marks look like they were generated from your sanding, then yes – you may be moving to a finer grit too quickly.
Carnauba wax is one of the hardest natural waxes around. It comes from the surfaces of the leaves of some palm species. I wouldn’t use a car wax as a primary coat, though.. because usually car waxes have some color additives (though they can be great for top coats of wax). It may be worth looking for a carnauba-based wax in the wood finishing or paint department of a local hardware store or home improvement store. They’ll definitely list if they contain carnauba. it’s the good stuff!
September 22nd, 2018 at 09:46
I have a shower made of a combination of VT Verde Antique and Ming Marbles. Before the glass enclosure was installed it waxed the whole thing, but I am still getting water spots. We have a water softening system, have flushed the hot water tank, yet they persist. I am also getting a dark build up on the floor grout, (floor is Ming with a light silver grout) and spots I cannot remove with regular cleaner on the tiles. I use MarbleLife products, and just used the grout cleaner on it, which restored the color of the grout, but wonder if it was also stripping the wax? Should I re-wax or should I do a full strip and use a sealer that is easier to use? Waxing those little tiles on the floor is a nightmare and shredded the cloths, not to mention sometimes my hands and fingernails. Please help.
September 22nd, 2018 at 17:09
Hi Lynn,
Marble – in my opinion – isn’t a great choice for a shower because of how soft and absorbent it is. But me whining about it isn’t going to help you very much.. so, let’s get to the helpful part… I would remove the wax altogether either with abrasion or chemically, let the stone dry out for a day or two, and apply a penetrating sealer to both the stone and the grout and let that cure. The MarbleLife products may help getting any stains out of the stone, too – but if not, a paste of baking soda and water may help if you let it sit on there for a while, rinse it off, then let the stone dry for a day or two.
Once everything is sealed and dry, you can put a coat of wax on that if you wish, but it shouldn’t be necessary. if you can keep the stone sealed, you should be able to prevent stains including water spots.
Also – if you’re seeing mineral deposits where the water splashes, a little wax should make those surfaces easier to clean and maintain and protect the sealant from any scrubbing that you may be doing.
I hope this helps!
October 22nd, 2018 at 11:21
I recently just purchased a used marble coffe and end tables , it looks like some one sprayed them with a clear laquer or varathane , they have yellowed over the years and have scratches in the clear coat , is it the same procedure , start with 80 grit and work up ….., would automotive buffing compound work for the last step ? Then apply a comercial sealer ?
January 11th, 2019 at 21:16
Hi Al. I think you’ll find that buffing compound will leave the stone looking kind of hazy or like it has a matte finish. Ideally, you’d want to polish to a finer grit, but a commercial – or other type of sealer should suffice.
If the finish that was applied to the tables was absorbed by the stone, you may have a lot of work on your hands to get things as you want them, though..
February 3rd, 2019 at 18:22
Hello, any ideas on why my marble won’t polish to a shine? I bought the 8 piece diamond pad kit and all it did was give me a smooth dull finish.
Tiles were mirror finish when new and slowly filled over time and I am trying to restore to a shine.
Any help is appreciated thank you.
May 30th, 2019 at 18:36
Hi Chuck! You can either keep using a finer and finer grit abrasive, or seal the stone and polish it. Sealing and polishing might be less work . – because the gloss comes from the surface having fewer, smaller holes in it – in addition to the fine surface on the stone.
February 19th, 2019 at 10:05
Thank you for the info. I have a marble table that cracked into 2 pieces. I have reglued the table using glue and marble dust made from small pieces where it broke. I am trying to restore the lustre at the break and make it smoother. I started sanding with 220 grit sandpaper (wet) and I am removing the shine around where I am sanding. Based on your article, I believe I just have to keep going with finer grits. Just want to confirm I am doing this correctly. Thanks
February 19th, 2019 at 11:20
You’re absolutely correct. Polishing is merely the process of making smaller and smaller scratches in something.
May 10th, 2019 at 13:21
So I have gone from 220 grit, to 400, then 600 and 1000. Unfortunately, all I have done is made the dull area around the break bigger. Any suggestions?
Terry
May 21st, 2019 at 17:01
So I have gone from 220 grit, to 400, then 600 and 1000. Unfortunately, all I have done is make the dull area around the break bigger. Any suggestions? Maybe I am not sanding enough. Also my friend tells me he has diamond polish that I could use. Is this a good idea?. I would appreciate any suggestions
May 21st, 2019 at 17:07
My friend just dropped off the polish. It is Dremel No. 421 polishing compound. As I said, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
April 7th, 2019 at 09:20
I am so happy to have found this article! We were given a marble slab that we are using to finish up our DIY kitchen island. The marble piece was outside leaning against a garage (we have no idea how long it was out there). The end that was on the ground (and stuck in the mud) has a dull look to it. We started with a 180 grit then a wet 500 grit, then a wet 1500 grit, then a wet 2000 grit. It made it look and feel really smooth and nice but it is not shinny like the rest of the piece. Any suggestions as to what we should do next or a different way to go about making it pretty again?
Thank you,
Amanda H
May 30th, 2019 at 18:34
Hi Amanda! Depending on the stone, 1000 to 2000 grit abrasives can leave a matte-like finish. If you’d like to make the whole slab match, I’d recommend sanding it to the same grit, sealing it, and polishing it. The sealing and the polishing parts are where the real shine (or sometimes the lack thereof) come from.
May 30th, 2019 at 18:54
just want to say your awesome
the leather did the trick
Been refinishing my bathroom marble for a week now, a lot of work, could get the shine i wanted so did research and found your page.
The leather brought out the shine.
Any ideas on how to maintain for soap scum and hard water?
May 30th, 2019 at 19:39
Great to hear, and thank you! It you put a coat of wax over the shined marble – it should protect from hard water stains and soap scum. The topmost layer is a sacrificial one, because the minerals in the water will bond to it, instead of the stone. if the finish degrades, a new coat of wax should be the most that you’ll need.
June 7th, 2019 at 16:14
Hello,
Awesome article, thank you for sharing. I have a coffee table which has a marble top and I think the marble has a sealant on it. Over the past year it’s gotten a few scratches and stains. I’m wondering if your steps of using 600grit sandpaper would work on a marble that has a coated sealant on it? Also, would it matter that it’s not a thick marble table top?
Thank you in advance.
August 1st, 2022 at 09:21
Thank you!
600 grit will take a very long time to remove deep scratches and stains (longer even that it has taken me to respond, sorry about that!), especially with a sealant on top. I perhaps if you start wet sanding in the 100-220 grit range before moving up to higher grits like 320, 400, 600 & 800, you’ll save a lot of time and have better results.
How thick is it? it’ll take a very long time to sand through marble as thin as 1/8th of an inch (approx. 3mm) by hand or with a machine with a grit finer than 150.
August 28th, 2019 at 11:07
Where do you find the leather you speak of in your posts? Can you use it with a buffer? Not sure I have the strength to apply the elbow grease necessary. Thank you for your advice.
August 1st, 2022 at 09:05
Plain old tanned leather – preferably leather that hasn’t been dyed. In the past, I’ve bought it from Tandy Leather, saddle and belt makers, even arts and craft stores. I’ve also found it on ebay and amazon. Elbow grease and strength will make the process take less time, but it isn’t a requirement. Sometimes just leaving a bit of leather on the stone surface and giving it a little polish when you have time or ability will suffice as well. It really depends on what your goals are, you know?
September 30th, 2020 at 13:24
Thank you Brian for your instructions. They are clear and precise. I am attempting to polish a piece of raw marble given to me by a special friend so I didn’t want to take the chance of running it. I’ll try to remember to post the finished product. Thanks again!
October 6th, 2020 at 13:44
That’s great to hear! Please do!
November 25th, 2020 at 12:17
I love this article! I have a marble dining table that was passed down to me by my mom and it had this coating on top that has completely cracked off. I read somewhere that, the coating is better left off and I should look into polishing by wet sanding and setting the table. As far as finishing/setting the table what do recommend if this table will be used every night for dining and is more likely to have a spill?
August 1st, 2022 at 09:15
Thank you, Iraida! Forgive me for taking so long to get back to you! If the table is in a spill-prone environment, it may be worth wet sanding the top as you’d like, then applying a sealer that soaks into the stone rather than one that sits on top. Or, you could simply wet sand it and melt a carnauba wax into the stone (rub it on, let the solvents flash off, go over it gently with a torch of some sort, then buff it out). One thing to consider as well, would be to finish it not with the intention of preventing stains, but rather creating a living/working surface that is proud of being used. If the table shows too much “character”, rubbing a slurry of oxalic acid on the stone (wear gloves, please) will remove most stains – rinse this off, and give it a new coat of wax…
January 16th, 2021 at 13:57
Great information, and I am so happy to see you are still active on this blog. I bought an antique Carrera marble 3 tier fountain that is approx 14’x7′ during my time in Italy. The fountain is absolutely beautiful, except it is missing that shiny polished finish we would see on marble statues. I know it would be an enormous project I will be taking on, but how would I polish something like this? The biggest challenge will be the intricate carvings. I would to send a photo if possible, but any advice would be greatly appreciated!
August 1st, 2022 at 09:00
Hi Dominic! Sorry for taking forever to get back to you. The best way to go about it? carefully. Depending on the antiquity of the fountain style, it may be best left with a matte finish if the style is really old. If the style is more Baroque-like, using an oxalic acid slurry may prove to be the easiest route. Be sure to wash it off fairly quickly because if it’s left on the stone for too long, it can damage it. The good news about oxalic acid and fountains is you may have future uses for it as well because it’s great for removing stains that may be caused by minerals in the fountain water. Using leather and/or wax after the oxalic acid can give your stone a polished, yet burnished appearance, too.
August 15th, 2021 at 21:25
Brian, As others have noted, your instructions are best out there after many searches. However, before I go sandpaper shopping, hoping to get confirmation of what to do to “re-hone” my honed marble countertops. They aren’t stained, just very etched in a way that doesn’t look like a pretty patina, but instead like a messy family abused it during Covid lock-down.
I feel I’m mixing together your suggestions for different finishes – I just want a nice honed/matte-to-satin finish, while removing the existing etching. Please confirm or correct: After cleaning (as you instructed), I’m to start with a DRY 120, then 220, then 320 grit sandpaper (using a hand-sanding block), then up to a WET 600 grit (using a hand-sanding block). For a pretty matte finish, I then use the fuzzy side of a piece of non-colored leather to buff.
In advance, many thanks for your guidance for my particular situation!
Libby
August 16th, 2021 at 10:18
Hi Libby! if the scratches aren’t too deep, 120-> 600 should be great. If there’s a sealant on the surface of the stone, a green Scotch-Brite pad with a little bit of water should be able to remove it pretty quickly. Also – if you have a large area to work on, wet sanding from start to finish may be a little easier. The abrasive paper will have a longer functional life because it won’t clog as quickly and there won’t be as much dust – but the slurry from sanding can be a little messy. The 600 grit will leave a nice matte finish, the leather will give it a nice look. Good luck and thank you for your kind words!